Keeping the Edge on My Spanish Life

Time Flies
Hi! It has been several months since I have written another “chapter in my book” as Mom calls it. I suppose the old adage, “time flies when you´re having fun” applies. I have been here in Spain for a little over two years, and it has been two years of non-stop fun. Relatively speaking. I suppose better described as an adventure (with both positive and negative aspects) that doesn´t seem to end.

I am trying to keep the edge to my life here...so that things don´t become “old hat”. You know what I mean, when you go on vacation to somewhere new, you take your camera, take dozens of pictures and the locals think you´re crazy. When I first got to Spain (of my 15-some trips here) everything was different from my life in the USA. Now that I have been here for two years, things are becoming old hat, so I have to find different glasses to wear to be able to see things in a “new light”.

Housekeeping
Just a little housekeeping for you all. Ángel and I have moved (again! You say). We have exchanged the quiet countryside of El Espinar for the hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan Madrid, Spain´s capital and largest city. In some respects it´s kind of like living in Washington D.C. (that´s for you, Jen). Although I have never lived in D.C. I can only imagine what it´s like to feel the political power that just oozes through the city´s blocks. At least it´s like that here in downtown Madrid. We live uptown, but still centrally located. Quite close to Santiago Bernabeu Stadium, home of Real Madrid Fútbol Club(spanish for royal – pronounced ray-al) . What is said to be THE BEST soccer team in the world (sorry Bruno, Juventus is not quite there). In fact today there´s alot of hub-bub here in Madrid since they just signed Beckham from Manchester United. In case you wanted to know, Beckham is married to Victoria of the flash-in-the-pan Spice Girls, the one-hit wonder.

Our new neighborhood is wonderful. Our metro line is line 1, the first metro line built in the city (way back when). In 15 minutes and no connections, I can be in the Puerta del Sol, the exact (more or less) center of the country. I am a five minute walk to line 10 at the Plaza de Castilla which runs north and south along (rather under) La Castellana, which is the longest street in the city and connects the northern business district of La Plaza de Castilla (where we are) to the historic section of the city and the world famous Prado museum. In all, the metro system (subway) has 12 lines which can get one anywhere s/he wants to go in the city with no traffic jams. You can even go out to the airport in 20 minutes for only about $1.50. The whole ride you enjoy air-conditioned luxury (good-bye SEPTA) and even watch METRO TV.

Our particular flat is in the same building as where we are reforming the offices for our language consultancy. And before you ask, we will be launching in the fall...still have quite a bit to do and with the summer approaching, now is not the time to launch any business (everyone leaves the city!!). Talk about a short commute, I just have to run down a couple flights of stairs and I am at work!

I know that we have chosen the right neighborhood for our business...it has all the right karma. I mean, who can go wrong when a block away is a shoe store called Calzados Gaspar and then a couple of blocks further down there is the Chocolateria Filadelfia (Chocolateria = where they sell the very thick and rich hot chocolate and Filadelfia – Philadelphia!). Hmmm....I think it has my name written all over it!

Some things remind me that I´m not in the States
As my life is old hat here, I do occasionally experience or see something that reminds me that I am not in the States. I just returned from the neighborhood polideportivo. Essentially a community-based, government-run gym/sporting complex that is the meeting place for all those crazy enough to work up a sweat in 100º weather. Today was my first time to venture into the sweat-filled, adrenaline-pumped building. As I entered into the sala de musculación (the weight room) I was transported back in time and memory to my workout sessions at Bally´s at 15th and Walnut in center city Philadelphia. The clinking of the metal weights, the smell of sweat, the music blaring away through tinny sounding speakers. Heck it was even the top 40 in English from the early 80´s that was playing today. Yippee. (note to self, next time bring walkman). I closed my eyes, walked through the doorway and absorbed all that my breathing and hearing could absorb in the split second before opening my eyes again and being reminded that I am not in the States. Of the 50 or so people that were in the room, only three, including yours truly who just entered, were women. Arrrgh. One of the women was on a stationary bike (typical) and the other was on the treadmill (go figure). More than a few eyebrows were raised as I made way over to one of my favorite machines, the adductor. I suppose those gents were not accustomed to seeing a woman making a beeline for the machines instead of heading for a bike or treadmill (ho-hum). I suppose I could always join Bally´s here, where I am sure there is much more of a gender mix... but that kind of takes away from the whole Spain-thing.

Some things make me think that I am in the States
From the ever-present McDonalds and Burger King to the newly arrived Starbucks. From the ads for Lay-Z-Boy recliners to Midas mufflers and the new and very popular strip malls anchored by AMC movie theaters, I would swear that I am in the United States...if it weren´t for all the Spanish being spoken. Well...I suppose depending on the part of the States you are in, that could also be the case. Fortunately in our neighborhood none of these Americanisms exist (I like being the only Americanism around here... hee hee).

Spain was once a very homogenous country. To some degree it still is....Catholicism is the predominant religion, everyone speaks Spanish and knows where the family is from however, with the emergence of the European Union and Spain being the southern gateway, illegal immigration is giving the politicians a run for their money. Our neighborhood is a melting pot of cultures. There are alot of Latin American immigrants, particularly Ecuadorians. Then the hair salon around the corner called Lady Ultimate. The salon caters soley to an African clientele. Just a couple of weeks ago, a Chinese couple opened up a convenience store also around the corner from us. It´s funny to walk in, speak to the husband in Spanish and hear their 2-yr old son rattle off words in Chinese (not sure which dialect) and Spanish.

Diversity is a good thing, and that´s something that I really missed while living in El Espinar. I mean, the diversity of livestock will only get you so far...

Top Manta
In the States you have the “Top 40” pop songs of the week. Sometimes I can tune my radio here in Spain and still hear Casey Casum counting them down. Here, there is a unique phenomena called the “Top Manta”. It is a ironic look at the choice of profession (or in most cases, not a choice) of many illegal Africans here in Spain. Pirated (illegally copied) CDs and DVDs are big business. Many mafias illegally run pirating businesses and then have the illegal immigrants sell them on the street spread out on blankets. (manta = blanket...Top Manta = Top Blanket). Actually you can get a good deal...buy a DVD on the street for 8€ is not such a bad price. All the radio talk shows talk about the week´s Top Manta – the most sold DVD and CD titles on the street. Talk about being entrepreneurial! Maybe I should look into the Top Manta business instead of teaching!! Hee hee..

Keeping the Connections
Now that we are here in Madrid, I have more of an opportunity to participate socially with my friends. A group of us have started an informal bilingual volleyball league on Sundays. Last week I played in three games and was on all the winning teams. I hope to restart the women´s dining club come September and have a few other tricks up my sleeve... I will definitely keep you posted!

Until then, I anxiously await your messages and notes! Even if I am not so great at responding lately... I love reading them!

Happy New Year!

¡Felíz Año Nuevo! Happy New Year!

This year I was going to stop writing these silly anecdotes, but on our recent visit home, several of you asked me when the next is coming out...so here you have it!

Same Holidays Different Traditions
In a recent email from my Aunt Carol, she asked me about the differences between celebrating the holidays in Spain v.s. the USA. I think most of you will concur that the Christmas holiday (I have chosen not to be politically correct here...so I hope my non-Christian friends will not take offense) begins the day after Thanksgiving with the traditional “Black Friday” shopping...if you are in NYC and see the Macy´s Thanksgiving Day Parade, perhaps you will say it begins when the Santa float makes its appearance. Anyway...since Thanksgiving is not a holiday celebrated here in Spain (Duh), Christmas marketing begins a little earlier...just after Halloween (Halloween wasn´t traditionally celebrated here, but over the past few years, has begun to catch on). Santa Claus or Papá Noël as he is called here, is viewed as an Anglo Saxon tradition and does not have nearly as much popularity as the Reyes Magos (The Three Wise Men/the Three Kings)..although I must add that each year he is gaining in popularity. During the Christmas season, although losing its popularity, is the tradition of the children going from house to house singing villancicos (Christmas carols) and collecting money.

La Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) is celebrated with the family with a huge sit down meal of 3-4 courses. Tradition calls for several dishes of seafood as well as cordero asado (roasted lamb). The practicing Catholics will go the the Misa del Gallo (the Rooster Mass or midnight Mass). The families that choose to exchange gifts at Christmas do so on Christmas Eve. Christmas trees, while gaining in popularity here, are not the tradition, but rather, an elaborate Belén or manger display. My parents-in-law didn´t have either at their house this year, but my brother-in-law and his wife had both – an artificial tree and a Belén. Last year Ángel and I put up a tree, and a few decorations around the house. This year we didn´t do anything since we were in the States for the holidays. What I really miss here in Spain and loved seeing while back in the USA are all the brightly lit houses with the merry, twinkling lights. Here the cities and towns put up special Christmas lights and I have even seen a few decorated trees, but in general the private homes do not do too much decorating…at least nothing compared to the USA. Then again, as Ángel frequently says, everything in the USA is más (more). He was quite surprised and enjoyed seeing the lit houses in the Philadelphia area.”Just like the movies” he exclaimed.

December 28th is the día de los inocentes much like April Fools Day in the USA...practical jokes abound. I don´t think there is any direct or indirect correlation between this date and the rest of the holiday season, but who knows?would have to do a little research on that.

The celebration of La Noche Vieja (New Year´s Eve) runs the gamut from huge public celebrations in the main town squares, to the very chic private parties in highly coveted bars, to the mega parties in the discoteques and the private family gatherings. Whatever your style (Ángel has not missed a New Year´s Eve dinner at his parents´ house in his entire life) the one tradition that is seen at all celebrations is that of the doce uvas (12 grapes). I recall in my college Spanish classes, Dr. Iglesias animatedly telling us about eating the 12 grapes to the rhythm of the bells tolling the hour...one grape per chime. Ahhh, no big deal we thought, how easy. But not so easy! After a huge dinner of 3-4 courses (yes the Spaniards are big on eating!)… dessert...coffee...everflowing wine and champagne, try downing a dozen grapes (they are big here, this is wine making country!)...and not the seedless variety either! Of course there is all sorts of marketing that goes along with this tradition including party favor style cans of 12 grapes each.

The children do not write letters to Santa Claus but rather to the Reyes Magos. In all of the centro comerciales (shopping centers) they line up to sit on one of the Three Kings´ lap to tell him their wishes. On the 5th of January, each child leaves a pair of shoes by the window (no stockings are hung by the chimney with care) so that the Reyes Magos can leave them a surprise. Here, on the 6th of January, Epiphany in the Christian religions...the date the three wise men brought the gifts to the Christ Child...families exchange gifts --- it´s a national holiday and marks the end of the holiday season. Of course the traditional breakfast and coffee food is the roscón that comes in many different varieties. Generally it is a large round pastry (about the size of a medium pizza) with a hole in the middle (like a doughnut) and filled with cream and topped with candied fruit, inside the roscón is a small trinket that is said to bring good luck to the person who gets it.

Just as in the States, during the entire holiday season, there is the tradition of visiting friends and family and wishing them all good cheer. The homes are often stocked with turrones (almond nougat candies), polvorones (another traditional candy), dried fruits, nuts, and bombones (chocolate bon-bons) and as soon as the guests arrive, a sweet tray is readily prepared and served with the everpresent coffee, or in some cases, a liquor/cordial.

Sometimes I get saddened by the tremendous influence that the American culture has on Spain. I relish the fact that different countries have different ways of celebrating the holiday season. Spain had not been a very consumer driven country, previously the wealth did not exist. The people bought what they needed and used what they bought. There was a much larger middle class and the upper and lower classes were the exceptions rather than the rule. However, much is changing here. Consumerism is rising here as is consumer debt, the middle class is beginning to shrink. The concept of keeping up with the “Garcías” (as I call it) is beginning to become apparent in certain social circles and classism is becoming more and more the norm.

Ahhh but you can´t have it all. Along with the bad comes the good and vice versa...

Mom and Dad's European Vacation

Mom and Dad´s European Vacation
So, I had Mom and Dad here visiting for the month of August, minus one week when they escaped the doldrums of our mountain home for 7 days of urban bliss in Paris. During that time, Patti came and went as well. It was a really neat experience to have them here! After all these years of “Spain this or Spain that”, they finally got to know the country that I first fell in love with 18 years and 15-some trips ago. For Mom, it was the first time she ever set foot in Spain. For Dad, it was the first time in 40 years he had been here. If you know anything about recent Spanish history, you know that the Spain of 40 years ago, under the dictatorship of Francisco Franco, has absolutlely NOTHING to do with the democratic/socialist Spain of today, currently under the leadership of President José María Aznár and the Partido Popular (the Poplar or Populist Party). Needless to say, Patti marveled at how remarkably similar to Italy Spain is and Mom and Dad were impressed with the old world and new world functioning side by side. Old world stuff...I had Dad participate in an encierro small town bull fight. Yes, he was actually in the ring with the bulls and a bunch of other brazen young and not-so-young, sober and not-so-sober men (I won´t say which category my father falls into). Actually there were a few women participating too. This chica, as crazy as she is, has retired from her festive days. I enjoyed the spectacle from the bleachers with Patti and Mom...who I am not so sure was enjoying it too much. I think she was worried about explaining to my brother how all of Dad´s ribs got broken. Hee hee. Dad made it home in one piece, after a few tense moments and Angel finally going down and dragging him out of the ring. Literally. It was quite an experience and a memory that I am sure Dad will enjoy reliving many times over. New world stuff … shopping in El Corte Inglés, Spain´s largest department store and wandering through Carrefour, the French chain of hypermarkets that was never really successful in penetrating the American market. I also have to mention zipping along the autopistas (highways) that are quite modern in their own right. Of course me with my new Spanish drivers´ license, I am not permitted to zip too much...more like crawl at 50 mph (newly licensed drivers are permitted a maximum speed of 80 kph for the first year of their license) with all the others zipping by me at breathtaking speeds of 100-120 mph. Ahh but it´s good to have friends in all the right places, or as they are called here enchufes. So, Juan (yes, Lori, can you believe it? He is now a big time lawyer here in Madrid) has promised to take care of any speeding tickets, just for crying out loud go faster than 50 mph (as he so eloquently put it)!

Business as Usual
Summer is over and it´s back to business as usual, or is it? I sometimes feel like my life is an endless series of adventures. Close one chapter open another. It´s actually a pretty cool feeling. As I have always said, better busy than bored. So, I am busy creating the next chapter (within a chapter) of my life. Now that all the summer visitors are gone, we are full steam ahead on our business. Originally planned for a September launch, but it looks like it´ll be closer to October before Iber-English Language Partners will be opening it´s office just northwest of the business district here in Madrid. For those of you familiar with the city, it´ll be located in the Plaza de Castilla/Valdeacederas section. In the meantime, between laying brick, hanging drywall, developing teaching plans for the business and teaching a few random classes, I have been cranking out a couple of proposals for corporate clients (see, those non-profit fundraising days served me well to write great proposals on a shoestring budget!). Two of them are multinationals (one American and one Spanish), the third is a smaller local client. Along with that, have been pounding the pavement for English teachers...native speaking and preferrably legal. Otherwise, our expenses go up with the cost of administering the paperwork and legal fees to get the teachers their work visas...Patti! Where are you???!!! So, you are sitting there, shaking your head and thinking….”that crazy Becky! How does she do it??”. I don´t have to wonder, I know...I do it with the tremendous support of my wonderful life partner (or as Lee puts it, my best friend, my lover, my husband).

Fallen Angel
So, Mom and Dad...AND Patti, had the opportunity to get to know Angel much better and his wry sense of humor. I really hadn´t given it much thought before Patti pointed out to me how so many of my friends and family were concerned/worried about me “running off, getting married, and moving to Spain” in the blink of an eye... primarily because no one really KNEW Angel. Yes, several had met him on his brief weekend visits during our “courtship”. But the brevity and language barriers prevented any real “familiarity” from developing. Well, Mom and Dad left with future dreams of spending several months at a time visiting. And Patti, well...how ´bout it Patti? As I have always said, you never know what is waiting for you just around the next corner!! I feel like my Angel has fallen from the heavens. For those of you remaining with any bit of concern or worry, he is a wonderful wonderful man who has done (is doing) everything humanly and inhumanly possible to make sure that my transition here is a smooth one and that I become every bit the independent woman that I was in the states. Can´t beat that!

The Flip Side
Yes, I feel like my life is a shining sun, but it does have its dark spots (as every life does). My legal battle with O.E. is moving forward. Will probably have my court date mid October. I don´t care about being paid at this point, all I care about is putting these losers out of business so that they don´t continue to cheat hard working teachers and innocent families out of money. Angel and I have launched a massive (by our standards), publicity campaign against them. I even had my first TV interview here in Spain. Ha ha! It´s much different doing such an interview in a language that isn´t your native tongue. I felt like such a rebel running around Madrid at midnight posting up signs on all of O.E.'s former offices telling teachers and students alike to get in touch with each other via an email account that Angel set up. Oh the fun of it all. Good thing that Angel and I are like minded!

Food and Fun
As I mentioned in one of my previous chapters, Angel and I with the help of Jeremy, organized a decent sized bilingual barbecue in June. In all we had about 30 attendees and it was great fun. The next one is planned for this Saturday (the 21st) and the guest list has swelled to 53 and counting. The menu includes paella (seafood, meat and vegetable) as well as sangría and burgers and dogs for the expats with a hankering. We are gearing up for another volleyball game. Can´t wait. Rumor has it that a French guy is joining us this time around! If you are a Spain lover, or have a curiosity about the country, I recommend that you check out Jer's website. The guy has webcams all over the place as well as a very active message board. Aside from the social aspect of the BBQ, I am really testing the waters for part of our business...bilingual activities that give students of either language (Spanish/English) the opportunity to practice in a non-threating environment. Ah yes, remember game-night groupies...game night will never die, on the drawing board are plans to launch a monthly bilingual game night here! Many thanks to Patti who brought Taboo and Scrabble and also Rob and Chumi ... Boggle lives on! Mom and Dad taught Angel´s parents how to play rummy and they taught Mom and Dad how to play chinchón. Cards, the international game.

Many thanks to those of you who emailed and said that you were looking for me on the news when the local stations covered the Tomatina (the huge tomato fight here in Spain). Unfortunately, our plans of going were altered by the tremendous hailstorms that Spain suffered the last week of August. The Tomatina was held, but the weather was rather cool. We didn´t want to run the risk of driving 5 hours only to discover it had been cancelled...there is always next year!