Monday, March 15, 2004

Despicable Terrorism

Contemplating What It All Means
I am forever asking you all to forgive my silence (all though it´s not really possible to shut me up completely!). The unfortunate events that took place here in Madrid on March 11th have given me, and plenty of other people, a second look at life and I wonder what it really all means. I have become a news junkie ever since marrying Ángel. I mean, current affairs were always an interest of mine, but now (over the past three years) even moreso as I struggle to feel connected to one country or another someway, somehow. When September 11th happened, I couldn´t help but feel like I was viewing the drama from high above. Connected, but yet not really connected. Connected because the USA is my country, yet disconnected once I knew that my family and friends were safe and not in any imminent danger. The same happened here for me in Madrid. I felt connected as my path crossed with many who were closely affected by the bombings, yet at the same time I felt disconnected, almost untouchable... as if the bombings would have never been able to hurt me or any of my loved ones. It was a strange out-of-body feeling.

I keep up with the news from the USA as much as possible. I read the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, the Financial Times, The Economist, scan CCN, scan Fox News, check Reuters and the BBC, not to mention the Spanish press. A healthy mix of left and right wing opinions and views. I like to think that I am fairly well versed in what is happening in my country, and around the world for that matter. However, I haven´t been able to come to a clear conclusion about what the March 11th bombings mean for Spain and the world.

Despite what is appearing in the (right wing) press in the United States, I do not believe that the Spaniards voted out of cowardice. Nor do I believe that they “voted” for Al Quaeda. However, I DO believe that what happened here, and the recent change in government (certainly not abrupt since the political race was neck and neck with the right leaning Partido Popular –PP – only slightly ahead) was a pure statement of democracy. Over the past two years there have been demonstrations against the war in Iraq, against the war in Afghanistan, the John Lennon “give peace a chance” parties, etc. While I don´t necessarily subscribe to these ways of expressing opinion, I´d be foolish not to mention that the Spanish culture is a very vocal culture. It is not one to conform or to run away in fear. It is one to demonstrate publicly about its displeasure (and it´s pleasure) of social issues. With the elections at hand, the Spanish population overall, was getting fed up with the governing party ... the attacks on March 11th were merely the straw that broke the camel´s back. People came out in record numbers to vote. The news here says that this year 75% of the eligible population voted, 2 million more than the year before. That, my friends, is a democracy, not an act of cowardiceness.

I did attend the peaceful protest against violent crime and terrorism in the streets of Madrid on Friday March 12, with Ángel, his brother and his brother´s wife... in the pouring rain with our umbrellas and candles. It was an extremely moving moment for me. Never in my life (so far as I can remember) have I ever felt such a strange mix of emotions. What moved me even more was to think that in Madrid alone, I was in a crowd of 2 MILLION people protesting. JUST IN MADRID! The Spaniards, after the horrific bombing which, when you compare the size of Spain --40 million -- to the USA --almost 300 million and damage –200+ deaths to 2000(?) deaths, can be considered Spain´s “September 11th” did not run and hide in their homes for fear of another attack. They took to the streets in angry defiance at the thought that someone(s) would so as dare attack the country. Overall, on that fated March 12th, an estimated 11 million people in Spain, ONE QUARTER OF THE POPULATION, took to the streets in peaceful, yet visibly angry defiance of such violence.

I have never been fond of the idea that the USA was taking a pre-emptive strike against Iraq...nor have I ever been really fond of José Luis Zapatero the new Prime Minister-elect of Spain. José María Áznar, Spain´s outgoing Prime Minister, ... I had learned to deal with although not necessarily agree with.

I suppose I am in a wait and see mode to see how these elections will affect, if at all, world politics and particularly the November elections in the States.

Perhaps I have bored a number of you with my political rants...but I would certainly welcome responses, feedback, and/or debate on the issue.

OK...off my soap box and onto lighter dribble.

An Expat´s Life
It is said that it takes an expat (expatriate...such as yours truly) anywhere from 3-5 years to fully adjust and feel at home in their new country. I am trusting that my familiarity with Spain and ability with the Spanish language has reduced my learning curve to the minimum 3 years. That being the case, next month, April 16th to be precise, marks my 3 year anniversary living here in Spain. Hard to believe that it has been that long already. My memories of life in the USA...particularly the last moments, will be forever crystal clear in my mind... and they almost always bring a smile to my face. According to those 3-5 year statistics...everything from here on out should be cake for me. It has definitely been an interesting ride and time in my life, these last 3 years...I can´t help but wonder if they would have been as varied and “drama filled” had I stayed in the States. Then again, I never really did have a boring life in the USA either. My favorite motto... better busy than bored!

On the wild rollercoaster of life!
So, we have finally launched our on-the-street marketing campaign for IberEnglish Language Partners. As I said in one of my classes, and had the students in stitches ... it has been a long pregnancy (2 years)! Our soft marketing campaign has consisted of papering our neighborhood walls and parked cars, within a walkable distance to our offices, with small posters and flyers about the business. It has been a great way to know first hand the demographics of our neighborhood. We have been in campaign mode for a month and so far have pulled in five new students. Plus, a couple of drop-ins and other callers to gather information about what we offer. All this, along with the four different corporate classes (in-company) I teach. We have worked our numbers and calculated that our maximum capacity, operating two classrooms simultaneously is 100 students. It will be a while before we reach that number, but we are well on our way. We are also technologically official now that we have registered our domain: IberEnglish Language Partners. Ángel, man-of-many-talents, is the webmaster and as you will see, the site is in plena desarrollo (development) as we speak. Be sure to check back often to see our progress! The “Iber” part of our name stands for the Iberian Penninsula which is comprised of Spain, Portugal and Andorra. There are lots of businesses here that start with Iber and we were pleasantly surprised to discover that no one had registered “IberEnglish”. Don´t let anyone kid you....running your own business is more difficult than working for others! I start my first class at 8am and teach back to back classes, occasionally with little more than an hour in between straight through until 9:30pm. Then, if I have any translation work... that gets added on at the end or between classes.

It´s a Pig´s Life
In one of my previous editions of “life in Spain” many moons ago, I mentioned the tradition of “La Matanza”. Those of you who understand Spanish might understand that that loosely translates to “the killing” or better yet, “the slaughter”. Well this year, between Ángel and his brother (and of course with the blessing of their respective spouses), decided to buy a pig to slaughter and have a traditional “matanza”. This tradition is usually carried out in families and takes place over several days (or in our case, a couple of weekends). We bought a nice big fat pig and took it to a vet to have it inspected and approved and then slaughtered. From there, we brought it to Ángel Sr.´s workshop where he proceeded to butcher it...saving the ham hocks for cured ham... cutting out choice pork loins, separating the brains, etc ... you get the picture. We took some of the meat and ran it through a hand operated meat grinder to make my favorite Spanish sausage, chorizo. Added the seasonings and stuffed the intestines to make more chorizo than I dare dream about. We then cooked the blood with onion and added cooked rice and pine nuts to make morcilla, or blood sausage/blood pudding. Yum yum! Once I got over the initial queasiness of seeing a slaughtered pig on the floor with various parts lying about, the sausage making was actually quite fun!

What did make me a bit queasy was one of the dishes my mother-in-law prepared. All I saw her do was scramble some eggs... I did not notice the ingredients that she threw in at the last moment. When we sat down to eat, she asked me if I wanted some “huevos con sesos”. I didn´t know the word sesos but, so what, I´m adventurous! When she served me the eggs, I asked her where the sesos were.. she said they were already mixed in. Still not knowing I took a mouthful and then caught everyone looking at me expectantly! Of course, Ángel had to be the one to rain on the parade and oh-so-lovingly explained that sesos was another word for materia gris or cerebro or, in English... BRAINS! I felt my stomach turn literally in knots and couldn´t take another bite! The other lovely dish that she prepared were pig jowls in tomato sauce. It actually wasn´t that bad... it was just the thought that made me a little nauseous.

Life Goes On
Life goes on... I´m enjoying contact with lots of interesting people and am anxiously awaiting Semana Santa (Holy Week)since Ángel has promised to take me camping in the mountains of central northwestern Spain. That will be fun! Please keep me up to date with what is going on in your lives! I love getting emails about the babies, the marriages, new connections, old friendships. So do stay in touch... and if you are ever thinking of heading our way...don´t hesitate to look us up! Even if it´s only to meet for cerveza and tapas! We´d love to see you!

Monday, November 10, 2003

Cool Websites and the Prince of Spain

Now that another several months have passed (I should be up to chapter 31 by now had I been doing this monthly as my was my original intent), I figured it was high time I got back on my laptop and did some more recreational writing. It appears lately that all I am doing is developing exercises to practice the use of the present perfect continuous (that´s the verb form of... “I have been working” for those inquiring minds that want to know) and explaining the subtleties in meaning between munching, gobbling, scarfing, noshing, chewing, snacking and eating....yum-yum...just in time for Thanksgiving! Ahhh the finer points of teaching English.

I want to share with you two really cool websites that I have learned of lately. The first one is a unique demonstration of the rapidly changing Spanish culture. TELEMADRE. Spain takes its eating seriously. Family meals are important and lunchtime is the biggest meal of the day. Of course that is in direct conflict with the savage capitalism which suggests that one must work umpteen hours a day with only a 30 minute break of a sandwich eaten hastily at your desk for what we pathetically call lunch. So, how does this work in Spain, where the images of siesta and fiesta are what immediately come to the minds of those not so intimately familiar with the country? Well, by law, companies are required to provide a 1 hour lunch break and the norm is generally 1.5-2 hours for lunch. This gives those who live close enough to go home and have a good home-cooked sit-down meal. Those who aren´t so fortunate can go to a nearby restaurant and for a fixed price (generally 7-10€) eat a three course meal including beverage and dessert. As my Uncle Jack would say, “not too shabby!” Obviously though, most salaries aren´t high enough to support a 10€ a day habit... especially for the younger workforce who has been forced to leave the comfort of their home town and mother´s cooking and move to big capital of Madrid. These poor souls are blessed with a long lunch hour, but small meals...often a sandwich or leftovers of last night´s meal.

Stresses of modern day life are here...and it´s quite frequent to find young Spanish professionals (especially women) who don´t know how to cook...not even the perennial tortilla española (which has nothing to do with the tortillas from Mexico). So, who are you going to call? Telemadre! (tele-mother). This business is the brainchild of a couple of bored housewives....empty-nesters to be exact ... who realized that they could fulfil their “need to cook for someone” (believe me, there are women here with that mentality....for example, my mother-in-law) by cooking for the thousands of single (or married) young professionals who don´t know how to, or don´t have time to cook for themselves...AND make money doing so! The clients are affectionately referred to as telehijos (tele-children) and they can order cooking services for up to all of their meals and are charged monthly. (Forget the VISA bill and grocery shopping, just pay your Telemadre bill!). This website / business venture is particularly fascinating for me because it blends a lot of different things, the Spanish culture of good eating... i.e. comidas caseras (home cooked meals), “recycling” (for lack of a better word) an important part of Spanish society that is often overlooked.... the 50-something year old mothers who just missed the boat on the feminist movement here in Spain and are caught in that old world/new world void... and brings them together with young professionals who find themselves away from the bosom of their own mother for the first time and perhaps are a bit overwhelmed with it all, especially their newly found independence. This business was recently covered by NPR, for any of you who listen to it. If not, you can go to NPR´s website and read the story in English.

A side note about my mother-in-law. She is just beginning to live her feminist movement days now. She has spent the entire summer (well, since May) in the family´s casa del pueblo (country home) which is in a small town about 2 hours northwest of Madrid. (When I say small, I mean about 300 full-time residents small). She has abandoned (in my father-in-law´s words) the family to live alone and at peace by herself... the funny thing is that she went there in the spring and is still there...and we are now in November! Some summer getaway! Her plans are to come back to Madrid in time for all the Christmas preparations. After a week or so of being there alone...she will get the urge to cook for someone or have family around her... so occasionally she will call a family member and an impromptu family reunion occurs where everyone gathers at the country home for a big meal. But then of course, she is stressed and uptight during the meal because she was so comfortable being alone...but now she has all these hungry mouths to feed and her screaming grandson to boot...a never ending vicious cycle. Ángel has to pass by the town on occasion for business, so he stops in to have lunch with his mother. That´s a good thing for me because he invariably comes home laden with several containers of home made food... from lentils, to chickpea stew, to stewed hare...you name it she sends it. She´ll even call me and ask if there in anything in particular that I would like for her to send! How funny is that?

The other website that I recently learned of is BOOKCROSSING. This site is based on the idea of making the entire world one big free library. Anyone can become a member for free and register any number of books that they own. Each book will receive a unique registration number (usually its ISBN number) and when the owner has read it and is ready to part with it....they do so by either passing it onto a friend or “freeing it into the wild”. “The wild” means a park bench, a lunch counter, a metro station... a bus stop...some public place where someone else will find the book, “adopt it” and hopefully go to the bookcrossing website (each book carries a sticker identifying it as a bookcrossing book) to register that they have found it and are reading it. Once they have read it, they too will hopefully release it into the wild again. When the books are released into the wild, the “releaser” posts where the book was released, and any bookcrossing participants who live in the vicinity can go and hunt down the book. Cool idea don´t you think? There are over 15,000 members in the USA alone, not to mention all the other countries of the world. Definitely a site to bookmark.

If you have any favorite websites, by all means share them with me. I am constantly amazed at the wonderful things that can be accomplished on the web and am always on the lookout for interesting sites.

The big news here in Spain nowadays is that their native son, Prince Philip of Asturias Príncipe Felipe de Asturias) has proposed marriage to ... (horrors upon horrors) a commoner! Well, in my opinion, she is not that common...she just isn´t of royal lineage. She is a divorced (no children) 31-year old, highly educated, bi, if not multi-lingual, on-the-fast-track, TV news anchor for Televisión Española (Spanish Public Television). Probably an equivalent to a Dianne Sawyer in terms of national fame here in Spain. The Spaniards view their royalty with complete respect (generally speaking) and therefore, you won´t read scandalous news about them as you might with their English counterparts. However, some social circles here question the Prince´s sexuality (he´ll be 36 in January, is very handsome, moneyed and single) and others question Letizia´s (future queen´s name) intentions. Some see her as power hungry and he with the need to continue the Royal Family bloodlines. Who knows? (and, who cares? I might irreverently add) Alas, my dream of marrying the Prince of Spain has now come to an end....but that´s alright with me as I have truly married my prince!

I have rambled enough for now...just a bit so that you know that I am alive and well. I hope that you are fine as well. Do drop a note and let us know how you are doing and what is new with your life...as always, I might not be quick to respond, but you can be sure that I read what I receive with great relish! Happy late Halloween or early Thanksgiving (is your glass half empty or half full?) to you all!

Wednesday, June 18, 2003

Keeping the Edge on My Spanish Life

Time Flies
Hi! It has been several months since I have written another “chapter in my book” as Mom calls it. I suppose the old adage, “time flies when you´re having fun” applies. I have been here in Spain for a little over two years, and it has been two years of non-stop fun. Relatively speaking. I suppose better described as an adventure (with both positive and negative aspects) that doesn´t seem to end.

I am trying to keep the edge to my life here...so that things don´t become “old hat”. You know what I mean, when you go on vacation to somewhere new, you take your camera, take dozens of pictures and the locals think you´re crazy. When I first got to Spain (of my 15-some trips here) everything was different from my life in the USA. Now that I have been here for two years, things are becoming old hat, so I have to find different glasses to wear to be able to see things in a “new light”.

Housekeeping
Just a little housekeeping for you all. Ángel and I have moved (again! You say). We have exchanged the quiet countryside of El Espinar for the hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan Madrid, Spain´s capital and largest city. In some respects it´s kind of like living in Washington D.C. (that´s for you, Jen). Although I have never lived in D.C. I can only imagine what it´s like to feel the political power that just oozes through the city´s blocks. At least it´s like that here in downtown Madrid. We live uptown, but still centrally located. Quite close to Santiago Bernabeu Stadium, home of Real Madrid Fútbol Club(spanish for royal – pronounced ray-al) . What is said to be THE BEST soccer team in the world (sorry Bruno, Juventus is not quite there). In fact today there´s alot of hub-bub here in Madrid since they just signed Beckham from Manchester United. In case you wanted to know, Beckham is married to Victoria of the flash-in-the-pan Spice Girls, the one-hit wonder.

Our new neighborhood is wonderful. Our metro line is line 1, the first metro line built in the city (way back when). In 15 minutes and no connections, I can be in the Puerta del Sol, the exact (more or less) center of the country. I am a five minute walk to line 10 at the Plaza de Castilla which runs north and south along (rather under) La Castellana, which is the longest street in the city and connects the northern business district of La Plaza de Castilla (where we are) to the historic section of the city and the world famous Prado museum. In all, the metro system (subway) has 12 lines which can get one anywhere s/he wants to go in the city with no traffic jams. You can even go out to the airport in 20 minutes for only about $1.50. The whole ride you enjoy air-conditioned luxury (good-bye SEPTA) and even watch METRO TV.

Our particular flat is in the same building as where we are reforming the offices for our language consultancy. And before you ask, we will be launching in the fall...still have quite a bit to do and with the summer approaching, now is not the time to launch any business (everyone leaves the city!!). Talk about a short commute, I just have to run down a couple flights of stairs and I am at work!

I know that we have chosen the right neighborhood for our business...it has all the right karma. I mean, who can go wrong when a block away is a shoe store called Calzados Gaspar and then a couple of blocks further down there is the Chocolateria Filadelfia (Chocolateria = where they sell the very thick and rich hot chocolate and Filadelfia – Philadelphia!). Hmmm....I think it has my name written all over it!

Some things remind me that I´m not in the States
As my life is old hat here, I do occasionally experience or see something that reminds me that I am not in the States. I just returned from the neighborhood polideportivo. Essentially a community-based, government-run gym/sporting complex that is the meeting place for all those crazy enough to work up a sweat in 100º weather. Today was my first time to venture into the sweat-filled, adrenaline-pumped building. As I entered into the sala de musculación (the weight room) I was transported back in time and memory to my workout sessions at Bally´s at 15th and Walnut in center city Philadelphia. The clinking of the metal weights, the smell of sweat, the music blaring away through tinny sounding speakers. Heck it was even the top 40 in English from the early 80´s that was playing today. Yippee. (note to self, next time bring walkman). I closed my eyes, walked through the doorway and absorbed all that my breathing and hearing could absorb in the split second before opening my eyes again and being reminded that I am not in the States. Of the 50 or so people that were in the room, only three, including yours truly who just entered, were women. Arrrgh. One of the women was on a stationary bike (typical) and the other was on the treadmill (go figure). More than a few eyebrows were raised as I made way over to one of my favorite machines, the adductor. I suppose those gents were not accustomed to seeing a woman making a beeline for the machines instead of heading for a bike or treadmill (ho-hum). I suppose I could always join Bally´s here, where I am sure there is much more of a gender mix... but that kind of takes away from the whole Spain-thing.

Some things make me think that I am in the States
From the ever-present McDonalds and Burger King to the newly arrived Starbucks. From the ads for Lay-Z-Boy recliners to Midas mufflers and the new and very popular strip malls anchored by AMC movie theaters, I would swear that I am in the United States...if it weren´t for all the Spanish being spoken. Well...I suppose depending on the part of the States you are in, that could also be the case. Fortunately in our neighborhood none of these Americanisms exist (I like being the only Americanism around here... hee hee).

Spain was once a very homogenous country. To some degree it still is....Catholicism is the predominant religion, everyone speaks Spanish and knows where the family is from however, with the emergence of the European Union and Spain being the southern gateway, illegal immigration is giving the politicians a run for their money. Our neighborhood is a melting pot of cultures. There are alot of Latin American immigrants, particularly Ecuadorians. Then the hair salon around the corner called Lady Ultimate. The salon caters soley to an African clientele. Just a couple of weeks ago, a Chinese couple opened up a convenience store also around the corner from us. It´s funny to walk in, speak to the husband in Spanish and hear their 2-yr old son rattle off words in Chinese (not sure which dialect) and Spanish.

Diversity is a good thing, and that´s something that I really missed while living in El Espinar. I mean, the diversity of livestock will only get you so far...

Top Manta
In the States you have the “Top 40” pop songs of the week. Sometimes I can tune my radio here in Spain and still hear Casey Casum counting them down. Here, there is a unique phenomena called the “Top Manta”. It is a ironic look at the choice of profession (or in most cases, not a choice) of many illegal Africans here in Spain. Pirated (illegally copied) CDs and DVDs are big business. Many mafias illegally run pirating businesses and then have the illegal immigrants sell them on the street spread out on blankets. (manta = blanket...Top Manta = Top Blanket). Actually you can get a good deal...buy a DVD on the street for 8€ is not such a bad price. All the radio talk shows talk about the week´s Top Manta – the most sold DVD and CD titles on the street. Talk about being entrepreneurial! Maybe I should look into the Top Manta business instead of teaching!! Hee hee..

Keeping the Connections
Now that we are here in Madrid, I have more of an opportunity to participate socially with my friends. A group of us have started an informal bilingual volleyball league on Sundays. Last week I played in three games and was on all the winning teams. I hope to restart the women´s dining club come September and have a few other tricks up my sleeve... I will definitely keep you posted!

Until then, I anxiously await your messages and notes! Even if I am not so great at responding lately... I love reading them!