Now that another several months have passed (I should be up to chapter 31 by now had I been doing this monthly as my was my original intent), I figured it was high time I got back on my laptop and did some more recreational writing. It appears lately that all I am doing is developing exercises to practice the use of the present perfect continuous (that´s the verb form of... “I have been working” for those inquiring minds that want to know) and explaining the subtleties in meaning between munching, gobbling, scarfing, noshing, chewing, snacking and eating....yum-yum...just in time for Thanksgiving! Ahhh the finer points of teaching English.
I want to share with you two really cool websites that I have learned of lately. The first one is a unique demonstration of the rapidly changing Spanish culture. TELEMADRE. Spain takes its eating seriously. Family meals are important and lunchtime is the biggest meal of the day. Of course that is in direct conflict with the savage capitalism which suggests that one must work umpteen hours a day with only a 30 minute break of a sandwich eaten hastily at your desk for what we pathetically call lunch. So, how does this work in Spain, where the images of siesta and fiesta are what immediately come to the minds of those not so intimately familiar with the country? Well, by law, companies are required to provide a 1 hour lunch break and the norm is generally 1.5-2 hours for lunch. This gives those who live close enough to go home and have a good home-cooked sit-down meal. Those who aren´t so fortunate can go to a nearby restaurant and for a fixed price (generally 7-10€) eat a three course meal including beverage and dessert. As my Uncle Jack would say, “not too shabby!” Obviously though, most salaries aren´t high enough to support a 10€ a day habit... especially for the younger workforce who has been forced to leave the comfort of their home town and mother´s cooking and move to big capital of Madrid. These poor souls are blessed with a long lunch hour, but small meals...often a sandwich or leftovers of last night´s meal.
Stresses of modern day life are here...and it´s quite frequent to find young Spanish professionals (especially women) who don´t know how to cook...not even the perennial tortilla española (which has nothing to do with the tortillas from Mexico). So, who are you going to call? Telemadre! (tele-mother). This business is the brainchild of a couple of bored housewives....empty-nesters to be exact ... who realized that they could fulfil their “need to cook for someone” (believe me, there are women here with that mentality....for example, my mother-in-law) by cooking for the thousands of single (or married) young professionals who don´t know how to, or don´t have time to cook for themselves...AND make money doing so! The clients are affectionately referred to as telehijos (tele-children) and they can order cooking services for up to all of their meals and are charged monthly. (Forget the VISA bill and grocery shopping, just pay your Telemadre bill!). This website / business venture is particularly fascinating for me because it blends a lot of different things, the Spanish culture of good eating... i.e. comidas caseras (home cooked meals), “recycling” (for lack of a better word) an important part of Spanish society that is often overlooked.... the 50-something year old mothers who just missed the boat on the feminist movement here in Spain and are caught in that old world/new world void... and brings them together with young professionals who find themselves away from the bosom of their own mother for the first time and perhaps are a bit overwhelmed with it all, especially their newly found independence. This business was recently covered by NPR, for any of you who listen to it. If not, you can go to NPR´s website and read the story in English.
A side note about my mother-in-law. She is just beginning to live her feminist movement days now. She has spent the entire summer (well, since May) in the family´s casa del pueblo (country home) which is in a small town about 2 hours northwest of Madrid. (When I say small, I mean about 300 full-time residents small). She has abandoned (in my father-in-law´s words) the family to live alone and at peace by herself... the funny thing is that she went there in the spring and is still there...and we are now in November! Some summer getaway! Her plans are to come back to Madrid in time for all the Christmas preparations. After a week or so of being there alone...she will get the urge to cook for someone or have family around her... so occasionally she will call a family member and an impromptu family reunion occurs where everyone gathers at the country home for a big meal. But then of course, she is stressed and uptight during the meal because she was so comfortable being alone...but now she has all these hungry mouths to feed and her screaming grandson to boot...a never ending vicious cycle. Ángel has to pass by the town on occasion for business, so he stops in to have lunch with his mother. That´s a good thing for me because he invariably comes home laden with several containers of home made food... from lentils, to chickpea stew, to stewed hare...you name it she sends it. She´ll even call me and ask if there in anything in particular that I would like for her to send! How funny is that?
The other website that I recently learned of is BOOKCROSSING. This site is based on the idea of making the entire world one big free library. Anyone can become a member for free and register any number of books that they own. Each book will receive a unique registration number (usually its ISBN number) and when the owner has read it and is ready to part with it....they do so by either passing it onto a friend or “freeing it into the wild”. “The wild” means a park bench, a lunch counter, a metro station... a bus stop...some public place where someone else will find the book, “adopt it” and hopefully go to the bookcrossing website (each book carries a sticker identifying it as a bookcrossing book) to register that they have found it and are reading it. Once they have read it, they too will hopefully release it into the wild again. When the books are released into the wild, the “releaser” posts where the book was released, and any bookcrossing participants who live in the vicinity can go and hunt down the book. Cool idea don´t you think? There are over 15,000 members in the USA alone, not to mention all the other countries of the world. Definitely a site to bookmark.
If you have any favorite websites, by all means share them with me. I am constantly amazed at the wonderful things that can be accomplished on the web and am always on the lookout for interesting sites.
The big news here in Spain nowadays is that their native son, Prince Philip of Asturias Príncipe Felipe de Asturias) has proposed marriage to ... (horrors upon horrors) a commoner! Well, in my opinion, she is not that common...she just isn´t of royal lineage. She is a divorced (no children) 31-year old, highly educated, bi, if not multi-lingual, on-the-fast-track, TV news anchor for Televisión Española (Spanish Public Television). Probably an equivalent to a Dianne Sawyer in terms of national fame here in Spain. The Spaniards view their royalty with complete respect (generally speaking) and therefore, you won´t read scandalous news about them as you might with their English counterparts. However, some social circles here question the Prince´s sexuality (he´ll be 36 in January, is very handsome, moneyed and single) and others question Letizia´s (future queen´s name) intentions. Some see her as power hungry and he with the need to continue the Royal Family bloodlines. Who knows? (and, who cares? I might irreverently add) Alas, my dream of marrying the Prince of Spain has now come to an end....but that´s alright with me as I have truly married my prince!
I have rambled enough for now...just a bit so that you know that I am alive and well. I hope that you are fine as well. Do drop a note and let us know how you are doing and what is new with your life...as always, I might not be quick to respond, but you can be sure that I read what I receive with great relish! Happy late Halloween or early Thanksgiving (is your glass half empty or half full?) to you all!
Monday, November 10, 2003
Wednesday, June 18, 2003
Keeping the Edge on My Spanish Life
Time Flies
Hi! It has been several months since I have written another “chapter in my book” as Mom calls it. I suppose the old adage, “time flies when you´re having fun” applies. I have been here in Spain for a little over two years, and it has been two years of non-stop fun. Relatively speaking. I suppose better described as an adventure (with both positive and negative aspects) that doesn´t seem to end.
I am trying to keep the edge to my life here...so that things don´t become “old hat”. You know what I mean, when you go on vacation to somewhere new, you take your camera, take dozens of pictures and the locals think you´re crazy. When I first got to Spain (of my 15-some trips here) everything was different from my life in the USA. Now that I have been here for two years, things are becoming old hat, so I have to find different glasses to wear to be able to see things in a “new light”.
Housekeeping
Just a little housekeeping for you all. Ángel and I have moved (again! You say). We have exchanged the quiet countryside of El Espinar for the hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan Madrid, Spain´s capital and largest city. In some respects it´s kind of like living in Washington D.C. (that´s for you, Jen). Although I have never lived in D.C. I can only imagine what it´s like to feel the political power that just oozes through the city´s blocks. At least it´s like that here in downtown Madrid. We live uptown, but still centrally located. Quite close to Santiago Bernabeu Stadium,
home of Real Madrid Fútbol Club(spanish for royal – pronounced ray-al) . What is said to be THE BEST soccer team in the world (sorry Bruno, Juventus is not quite there). In fact today there´s alot of hub-bub here in Madrid since they just signed Beckham from Manchester United. In case you wanted to know, Beckham is married to Victoria of the flash-in-the-pan Spice Girls, the one-hit wonder.
Our new neighborhood is wonderful. Our metro line is line 1, the first metro line built in the city (way back when). In 15 minutes and no connections, I can be in the Puerta del Sol, the exact (more or less) center of the country. I am a five minute walk to line 10 at the Plaza de Castilla which runs north and south along (rather under) La Castellana, which is the longest street in the city and connects the northern business district of La Plaza de Castilla
(where we are) to the historic section of the city and the world famous Prado museum. In all, the metro system (subway) has 12 lines which can get one anywhere s/he wants to go in the city with no traffic jams. You can even go out to the airport in 20 minutes for only about $1.50. The whole ride you enjoy air-conditioned luxury (good-bye SEPTA) and even watch METRO TV.
Our particular flat is in the same building as where we are reforming the offices for our language consultancy. And before you ask, we will be launching in the fall...still have quite a bit to do and with the summer approaching, now is not the time to launch any business (everyone leaves the city!!). Talk about a short commute, I just have to run down a couple flights of stairs and I am at work!
I know that we have chosen the right neighborhood for our business...it has all the right karma. I mean, who can go wrong when a block away is a shoe store called Calzados Gaspar and then a couple of blocks further down there is the Chocolateria Filadelfia (Chocolateria = where they sell the very thick and rich hot chocolate and Filadelfia – Philadelphia!). Hmmm....I think it has my name written all over it!
Some things remind me that I´m not in the States
As my life is old hat here, I do occasionally experience or see something that reminds me that I am not in the States. I just returned from the neighborhood polideportivo. Essentially a community-based, government-run gym/sporting complex that is the meeting place for all those crazy enough to work up a sweat in 100º weather. Today was my first time to venture into the sweat-filled, adrenaline-pumped building. As I entered into the sala de musculación (the weight room) I was transported back in time and memory to my workout sessions at Bally´s at 15th and Walnut in center city Philadelphia. The clinking of the metal weights, the smell of sweat, the music blaring away through tinny sounding speakers. Heck it was even the top 40 in English from the early 80´s that was playing today. Yippee. (note to self, next time bring walkman). I closed my eyes, walked through the doorway and absorbed all that my breathing and hearing could absorb in the split second before opening my eyes again and being reminded that I am not in the States. Of the 50 or so people that were in the room, only three, including yours truly who just entered, were women. Arrrgh. One of the women was on a stationary bike (typical) and the other was on the treadmill (go figure). More than a few eyebrows were raised as I made way over to one of my favorite machines, the adductor. I suppose those gents were not accustomed to seeing a woman making a beeline for the machines instead of heading for a bike or treadmill (ho-hum). I suppose I could always join Bally´s here, where I am sure there is much more of a gender mix... but that kind of takes away from the whole Spain-thing.
Some things make me think that I am in the States
From the ever-present McDonalds and Burger King to the newly arrived Starbucks. From the ads for Lay-Z-Boy recliners to Midas mufflers and the new and very popular strip malls anchored by AMC movie theaters, I would swear that I am in the United States...if it weren´t for all the Spanish being spoken. Well...I suppose depending on the part of the States you are in, that could also be the case. Fortunately in our neighborhood none of these Americanisms exist (I like being the only Americanism around here... hee hee).
Spain was once a very homogenous country. To some degree it still is....Catholicism is the predominant religion, everyone speaks Spanish and knows where the family is from however, with the emergence of the European Union and Spain being the southern gateway, illegal immigration is giving the politicians a run for their money. Our neighborhood is a melting pot of cultures. There are alot of Latin American immigrants, particularly Ecuadorians. Then the hair salon around the corner called Lady Ultimate. The salon caters soley to an African clientele. Just a couple of weeks ago, a Chinese couple opened up a convenience store also around the corner from us. It´s funny to walk in, speak to the husband in Spanish and hear their 2-yr old son rattle off words in Chinese (not sure which dialect) and Spanish.
Diversity is a good thing, and that´s something that I really missed while living in El Espinar. I mean, the diversity of livestock will only get you so far...
Top Manta
In the States you have the “Top 40” pop songs of the week. Sometimes I can tune my radio here in Spain and still hear Casey Casum counting them down. Here, there is a unique phenomena called the “Top Manta”. It is a ironic look at the choice of profession (or in most cases, not a choice) of many illegal Africans here in Spain. Pirated (illegally copied) CDs and DVDs are big business. Many mafias illegally run pirating businesses and then have the illegal immigrants sell them on the street spread out on blankets. (manta = blanket...Top Manta = Top Blanket). Actually you can get a good deal...buy a DVD on the street for 8€ is not such a bad price. All the radio talk shows talk about the week´s Top Manta – the most sold DVD and CD titles on the street. Talk about being entrepreneurial! Maybe I should look into the Top Manta business instead of teaching!! Hee hee..
Keeping the Connections
Now that we are here in Madrid, I have more of an opportunity to participate socially with my friends. A group of us have started an informal bilingual volleyball league on Sundays. Last week I played in three games and was on all the winning teams. I hope to restart the women´s dining club come September and have a few other tricks up my sleeve... I will definitely keep you posted!
Until then, I anxiously await your messages and notes! Even if I am not so great at responding lately... I love reading them!
Hi! It has been several months since I have written another “chapter in my book” as Mom calls it. I suppose the old adage, “time flies when you´re having fun” applies. I have been here in Spain for a little over two years, and it has been two years of non-stop fun. Relatively speaking. I suppose better described as an adventure (with both positive and negative aspects) that doesn´t seem to end.
I am trying to keep the edge to my life here...so that things don´t become “old hat”. You know what I mean, when you go on vacation to somewhere new, you take your camera, take dozens of pictures and the locals think you´re crazy. When I first got to Spain (of my 15-some trips here) everything was different from my life in the USA. Now that I have been here for two years, things are becoming old hat, so I have to find different glasses to wear to be able to see things in a “new light”.
Housekeeping
Just a little housekeeping for you all. Ángel and I have moved (again! You say). We have exchanged the quiet countryside of El Espinar for the hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan Madrid, Spain´s capital and largest city. In some respects it´s kind of like living in Washington D.C. (that´s for you, Jen). Although I have never lived in D.C. I can only imagine what it´s like to feel the political power that just oozes through the city´s blocks. At least it´s like that here in downtown Madrid. We live uptown, but still centrally located. Quite close to Santiago Bernabeu Stadium,
home of Real Madrid Fútbol Club(spanish for royal – pronounced ray-al) . What is said to be THE BEST soccer team in the world (sorry Bruno, Juventus is not quite there). In fact today there´s alot of hub-bub here in Madrid since they just signed Beckham from Manchester United. In case you wanted to know, Beckham is married to Victoria of the flash-in-the-pan Spice Girls, the one-hit wonder.Our new neighborhood is wonderful. Our metro line is line 1, the first metro line built in the city (way back when). In 15 minutes and no connections, I can be in the Puerta del Sol, the exact (more or less) center of the country. I am a five minute walk to line 10 at the Plaza de Castilla which runs north and south along (rather under) La Castellana, which is the longest street in the city and connects the northern business district of La Plaza de Castilla
(where we are) to the historic section of the city and the world famous Prado museum. In all, the metro system (subway) has 12 lines which can get one anywhere s/he wants to go in the city with no traffic jams. You can even go out to the airport in 20 minutes for only about $1.50. The whole ride you enjoy air-conditioned luxury (good-bye SEPTA) and even watch METRO TV.Our particular flat is in the same building as where we are reforming the offices for our language consultancy. And before you ask, we will be launching in the fall...still have quite a bit to do and with the summer approaching, now is not the time to launch any business (everyone leaves the city!!). Talk about a short commute, I just have to run down a couple flights of stairs and I am at work!
I know that we have chosen the right neighborhood for our business...it has all the right karma. I mean, who can go wrong when a block away is a shoe store called Calzados Gaspar and then a couple of blocks further down there is the Chocolateria Filadelfia (Chocolateria = where they sell the very thick and rich hot chocolate and Filadelfia – Philadelphia!). Hmmm....I think it has my name written all over it!
Some things remind me that I´m not in the States
As my life is old hat here, I do occasionally experience or see something that reminds me that I am not in the States. I just returned from the neighborhood polideportivo. Essentially a community-based, government-run gym/sporting complex that is the meeting place for all those crazy enough to work up a sweat in 100º weather. Today was my first time to venture into the sweat-filled, adrenaline-pumped building. As I entered into the sala de musculación (the weight room) I was transported back in time and memory to my workout sessions at Bally´s at 15th and Walnut in center city Philadelphia. The clinking of the metal weights, the smell of sweat, the music blaring away through tinny sounding speakers. Heck it was even the top 40 in English from the early 80´s that was playing today. Yippee. (note to self, next time bring walkman). I closed my eyes, walked through the doorway and absorbed all that my breathing and hearing could absorb in the split second before opening my eyes again and being reminded that I am not in the States. Of the 50 or so people that were in the room, only three, including yours truly who just entered, were women. Arrrgh. One of the women was on a stationary bike (typical) and the other was on the treadmill (go figure). More than a few eyebrows were raised as I made way over to one of my favorite machines, the adductor. I suppose those gents were not accustomed to seeing a woman making a beeline for the machines instead of heading for a bike or treadmill (ho-hum). I suppose I could always join Bally´s here, where I am sure there is much more of a gender mix... but that kind of takes away from the whole Spain-thing.
Some things make me think that I am in the States
From the ever-present McDonalds and Burger King to the newly arrived Starbucks. From the ads for Lay-Z-Boy recliners to Midas mufflers and the new and very popular strip malls anchored by AMC movie theaters, I would swear that I am in the United States...if it weren´t for all the Spanish being spoken. Well...I suppose depending on the part of the States you are in, that could also be the case. Fortunately in our neighborhood none of these Americanisms exist (I like being the only Americanism around here... hee hee).
Spain was once a very homogenous country. To some degree it still is....Catholicism is the predominant religion, everyone speaks Spanish and knows where the family is from however, with the emergence of the European Union and Spain being the southern gateway, illegal immigration is giving the politicians a run for their money. Our neighborhood is a melting pot of cultures. There are alot of Latin American immigrants, particularly Ecuadorians. Then the hair salon around the corner called Lady Ultimate. The salon caters soley to an African clientele. Just a couple of weeks ago, a Chinese couple opened up a convenience store also around the corner from us. It´s funny to walk in, speak to the husband in Spanish and hear their 2-yr old son rattle off words in Chinese (not sure which dialect) and Spanish.
Diversity is a good thing, and that´s something that I really missed while living in El Espinar. I mean, the diversity of livestock will only get you so far...
Top Manta
In the States you have the “Top 40” pop songs of the week. Sometimes I can tune my radio here in Spain and still hear Casey Casum counting them down. Here, there is a unique phenomena called the “Top Manta”. It is a ironic look at the choice of profession (or in most cases, not a choice) of many illegal Africans here in Spain. Pirated (illegally copied) CDs and DVDs are big business. Many mafias illegally run pirating businesses and then have the illegal immigrants sell them on the street spread out on blankets. (manta = blanket...Top Manta = Top Blanket). Actually you can get a good deal...buy a DVD on the street for 8€ is not such a bad price. All the radio talk shows talk about the week´s Top Manta – the most sold DVD and CD titles on the street. Talk about being entrepreneurial! Maybe I should look into the Top Manta business instead of teaching!! Hee hee..
Keeping the Connections
Now that we are here in Madrid, I have more of an opportunity to participate socially with my friends. A group of us have started an informal bilingual volleyball league on Sundays. Last week I played in three games and was on all the winning teams. I hope to restart the women´s dining club come September and have a few other tricks up my sleeve... I will definitely keep you posted!
Until then, I anxiously await your messages and notes! Even if I am not so great at responding lately... I love reading them!
Wednesday, January 01, 2003
Happy New Year!
¡Felíz Año Nuevo! Happy New Year!
This year I was going to stop writing these silly anecdotes, but on our recent visit home, several of you asked me when the next is coming out...so here you have it!
Same Holidays Different Traditions
In a recent email from my Aunt Carol, she asked me about the differences between celebrating the holidays in Spain v.s. the USA. I think most of you will concur that the Christmas holiday (I have chosen not to be politically correct here...so I hope my non-Christian friends will not take offense) begins the day after Thanksgiving with the traditional “Black Friday” shopping...if you are in NYC and see the Macy´s Thanksgiving Day Parade, perhaps you will say it begins when the Santa float makes its appearance. Anyway...since Thanksgiving is not a holiday celebrated here in Spain (Duh), Christmas marketing begins a little earlier...just after Halloween (Halloween wasn´t traditionally celebrated here, but over the past few years, has begun to catch on). Santa Claus or Papá Noël as he is called here, is viewed as an Anglo Saxon tradition and does not have nearly as much popularity as the Reyes Magos (The Three Wise Men/the Three Kings)..although I must add that each year he is gaining in popularity. During the Christmas season, although losing its popularity, is the tradition of the children going from house to house singing villancicos (Christmas carols) and collecting money.
La Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) is celebrated with the family with a huge sit down meal of 3-4 courses. Tradition calls for several dishes of seafood as well as cordero asado (roasted lamb). The practicing Catholics will go the the Misa del Gallo (the Rooster Mass or midnight Mass). The families that choose to exchange gifts at Christmas do so on Christmas Eve. Christmas trees, while gaining in popularity here, are not the tradition, but rather, an elaborate Belén or manger display. My parents-in-law didn´t have either at their house this year, but my brother-in-law and his wife had both – an artificial tree and a Belén. Last year Ángel and I put up a tree, and a few decorations around the house. This year we didn´t do anything since we were in the States for the holidays. What I really miss here in Spain and loved seeing while back in the USA are all the brightly lit houses with the merry, twinkling lights. Here the cities and towns put up special Christmas lights and I have even seen a few decorated trees, but in general the private homes do not do too much decorating…at least nothing compared to the USA. Then again, as Ángel frequently says, everything in the USA is más (more). He was quite surprised and enjoyed seeing the lit houses in the Philadelphia area.”Just like the movies” he exclaimed.
December 28th is the día de los inocentes much like April Fools Day in the USA...practical jokes abound. I don´t think there is any direct or indirect correlation between this date and the rest of the holiday season, but who knows?would have to do a little research on that.
The celebration of La Noche Vieja (New Year´s Eve) runs the gamut from huge public celebrations in the main town squares, to the very chic private parties in highly coveted bars, to the mega parties in the discoteques and the private family gatherings. Whatever your style (Ángel has not missed a New Year´s Eve dinner at his parents´ house in his entire life) the one tradition that is seen at all celebrations is that of the doce uvas (12 grapes). I recall in my college Spanish classes, Dr. Iglesias animatedly telling us about eating the 12 grapes to the rhythm of the bells tolling the hour...one grape per chime. Ahhh, no big deal we thought, how easy. But not so easy! After a huge dinner of 3-4 courses (yes the Spaniards are big on eating!)… dessert...coffee...everflowing wine and champagne, try downing a dozen grapes (they are big here, this is wine making country!)...and not the seedless variety either! Of course there is all sorts of marketing that goes along with this tradition including party favor style cans of 12 grapes each.
The children do not write letters to Santa Claus but rather to the Reyes Magos. In all of the centro comerciales (shopping centers) they line up to sit on one of the Three Kings´ lap to tell him their wishes. On the 5th of January, each child leaves a pair of shoes by the window (no stockings are hung by the chimney with care) so that the Reyes Magos can leave them a surprise. Here, on the 6th of January, Epiphany in the Christian religions...the date the three wise men brought the gifts to the Christ Child...families exchange gifts --- it´s a national holiday and marks the end of the holiday season. Of course the traditional breakfast and coffee food is the roscón that comes in many different varieties. Generally it is a large round pastry (about the size of a medium pizza) with a hole in the middle (like a doughnut) and filled with cream and topped with candied fruit, inside the roscón is a small trinket that is said to bring good luck to the person who gets it.
Just as in the States, during the entire holiday season, there is the tradition of visiting friends and family and wishing them all good cheer. The homes are often stocked with turrones (almond nougat candies), polvorones (another traditional candy), dried fruits, nuts, and bombones (chocolate bon-bons) and as soon as the guests arrive, a sweet tray is readily prepared and served with the everpresent coffee, or in some cases, a liquor/cordial.
Sometimes I get saddened by the tremendous influence that the American culture has on Spain. I relish the fact that different countries have different ways of celebrating the holiday season. Spain had not been a very consumer driven country, previously the wealth did not exist. The people bought what they needed and used what they bought. There was a much larger middle class and the upper and lower classes were the exceptions rather than the rule. However, much is changing here. Consumerism is rising here as is consumer debt, the middle class is beginning to shrink. The concept of keeping up with the “Garcías” (as I call it) is beginning to become apparent in certain social circles and classism is becoming more and more the norm.
Ahhh but you can´t have it all. Along with the bad comes the good and vice versa...
This year I was going to stop writing these silly anecdotes, but on our recent visit home, several of you asked me when the next is coming out...so here you have it!
Same Holidays Different Traditions
In a recent email from my Aunt Carol, she asked me about the differences between celebrating the holidays in Spain v.s. the USA. I think most of you will concur that the Christmas holiday (I have chosen not to be politically correct here...so I hope my non-Christian friends will not take offense) begins the day after Thanksgiving with the traditional “Black Friday” shopping...if you are in NYC and see the Macy´s Thanksgiving Day Parade, perhaps you will say it begins when the Santa float makes its appearance. Anyway...since Thanksgiving is not a holiday celebrated here in Spain (Duh), Christmas marketing begins a little earlier...just after Halloween (Halloween wasn´t traditionally celebrated here, but over the past few years, has begun to catch on). Santa Claus or Papá Noël as he is called here, is viewed as an Anglo Saxon tradition and does not have nearly as much popularity as the Reyes Magos (The Three Wise Men/the Three Kings)..although I must add that each year he is gaining in popularity. During the Christmas season, although losing its popularity, is the tradition of the children going from house to house singing villancicos (Christmas carols) and collecting money.
La Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) is celebrated with the family with a huge sit down meal of 3-4 courses. Tradition calls for several dishes of seafood as well as cordero asado (roasted lamb). The practicing Catholics will go the the Misa del Gallo (the Rooster Mass or midnight Mass). The families that choose to exchange gifts at Christmas do so on Christmas Eve. Christmas trees, while gaining in popularity here, are not the tradition, but rather, an elaborate Belén or manger display. My parents-in-law didn´t have either at their house this year, but my brother-in-law and his wife had both – an artificial tree and a Belén. Last year Ángel and I put up a tree, and a few decorations around the house. This year we didn´t do anything since we were in the States for the holidays. What I really miss here in Spain and loved seeing while back in the USA are all the brightly lit houses with the merry, twinkling lights. Here the cities and towns put up special Christmas lights and I have even seen a few decorated trees, but in general the private homes do not do too much decorating…at least nothing compared to the USA. Then again, as Ángel frequently says, everything in the USA is más (more). He was quite surprised and enjoyed seeing the lit houses in the Philadelphia area.”Just like the movies” he exclaimed.
December 28th is the día de los inocentes much like April Fools Day in the USA...practical jokes abound. I don´t think there is any direct or indirect correlation between this date and the rest of the holiday season, but who knows?would have to do a little research on that.
The celebration of La Noche Vieja (New Year´s Eve) runs the gamut from huge public celebrations in the main town squares, to the very chic private parties in highly coveted bars, to the mega parties in the discoteques and the private family gatherings. Whatever your style (Ángel has not missed a New Year´s Eve dinner at his parents´ house in his entire life) the one tradition that is seen at all celebrations is that of the doce uvas (12 grapes). I recall in my college Spanish classes, Dr. Iglesias animatedly telling us about eating the 12 grapes to the rhythm of the bells tolling the hour...one grape per chime. Ahhh, no big deal we thought, how easy. But not so easy! After a huge dinner of 3-4 courses (yes the Spaniards are big on eating!)… dessert...coffee...everflowing wine and champagne, try downing a dozen grapes (they are big here, this is wine making country!)...and not the seedless variety either! Of course there is all sorts of marketing that goes along with this tradition including party favor style cans of 12 grapes each.
The children do not write letters to Santa Claus but rather to the Reyes Magos. In all of the centro comerciales (shopping centers) they line up to sit on one of the Three Kings´ lap to tell him their wishes. On the 5th of January, each child leaves a pair of shoes by the window (no stockings are hung by the chimney with care) so that the Reyes Magos can leave them a surprise. Here, on the 6th of January, Epiphany in the Christian religions...the date the three wise men brought the gifts to the Christ Child...families exchange gifts --- it´s a national holiday and marks the end of the holiday season. Of course the traditional breakfast and coffee food is the roscón that comes in many different varieties. Generally it is a large round pastry (about the size of a medium pizza) with a hole in the middle (like a doughnut) and filled with cream and topped with candied fruit, inside the roscón is a small trinket that is said to bring good luck to the person who gets it.
Just as in the States, during the entire holiday season, there is the tradition of visiting friends and family and wishing them all good cheer. The homes are often stocked with turrones (almond nougat candies), polvorones (another traditional candy), dried fruits, nuts, and bombones (chocolate bon-bons) and as soon as the guests arrive, a sweet tray is readily prepared and served with the everpresent coffee, or in some cases, a liquor/cordial.
Sometimes I get saddened by the tremendous influence that the American culture has on Spain. I relish the fact that different countries have different ways of celebrating the holiday season. Spain had not been a very consumer driven country, previously the wealth did not exist. The people bought what they needed and used what they bought. There was a much larger middle class and the upper and lower classes were the exceptions rather than the rule. However, much is changing here. Consumerism is rising here as is consumer debt, the middle class is beginning to shrink. The concept of keeping up with the “Garcías” (as I call it) is beginning to become apparent in certain social circles and classism is becoming more and more the norm.
Ahhh but you can´t have it all. Along with the bad comes the good and vice versa...
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